Welcome to a journey through time, exploring two of Croatia’s most poignant and historically significant locations – Goli Otok and St. Grgur. These islands, set amidst the stunning Adriatic Sea, are stark reminders of Croatia’s tumultuous past during the 20th century.
Though they are now peaceful, their history is anything but.
The historical context of Goli otok and St. Grgur
Goli Otok (meaning “Barren Island” in Croatian) and Sveti Grgur (Saint Gregory) are two islands located in the Adriatic Sea, part of Croatia. They are primarily known for their use as prison islands during the Yugoslav era, particularly under the rule of Josip Broz Tito, the communist leader of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.
The Austro-Hungary monarchy first built the prison during WW1 for Russian prisoners.
From 1949 to 1956, Goli Otok served as a special prison and labor camp, and it continued to operate as a regular prison until 1989, just before the dissolution of Yugoslavia. The island was used to incarcerate political prisoners. These included actual or alleged Stalinists during the Informbiro period, following the Tito-Stalin split in 1948 when Yugoslavia was expelled from the Cominform (Communist Information Bureau) for its insistence on a more independent form of socialism. The split with Stalin led to a period of intense paranoia and repression as Tito sought to eliminate any Soviet influence or opposition within Yugoslavia.
Prisoners at Goli Otok were subjected to extremely harsh conditions, including hard labor, severe physical punishment, and psychological abuse. The camp is notorious for its system of “self-management,” where prisoners were forced to enforce discipline and punishments on each other, leading to a brutal regime of inmate-on-inmate violence.
The exact number of prisoners and victims remains a matter of debate, but it is believed that between 16 and 32 thousand people passed through the camp, with 500 dying due to the conditions or as a result of torture.
Sveti Grgur, located near Goli Otok, was used as a women’s prison from 1948 to 1953, primarily for those considered political prisoners. Women detained on Sveti Grgur faced conditions similar to those on Goli Otok, including hard labor, abuse, and inadequate living conditions. The island was part of the same network of re-education and punishment for those accused of political dissent or of being a threat to the socialist regime.
Escape
Escape from these prisons was almost impossible because of sttrong winds and currents. That is why Goli Otok was nicknamed „Croatian Alcatraz”. However, there were few successful attempts.
The geographical setting of Goli Otok and St. Grgur
Both islands are located in the northern part of the Adriatic Sea, along the Croatian coast in the Kvarner Gulf, part of Croatia’s Primorje-Gorski Kotar County.
Goli Otok is positioned between the islands of Rab and Prvić, closer to the mainland than to the neighboring island of Rab.
Sveti Grgur is located very close to Goli Otok, just to the northwest.
How to reach Goli Otok and St. Grgur
- Private Boat Tours: Private tours are organized by local operators from nearby towns like Rab, Krk, and Senj. These tours often include a guide who can provide historical context about the island.
- Rent a Boat: If you have the appropriate license, you could rent a boat to visit the island or hire a skipper. However, always check local regulations and weather conditions before setting out.
- Joining a Group Tour: Travel agencies or local historical societies occasionally organize group tours to these islands, focusing on their history and natural surroundings.
- Kayaking: Since Goli Otok is only 6 kilometers from the mainland and five from Rab Island, it is possible to reach it by kayak. However, although the distance is not significant, only experienced people should try to make this journey because the weather can be treacherous on the sea.
What can you see on Goli Otok and St. Grgur?
- Prison Complex Ruins: The main attraction is the extensive, though now dilapidated, prison complex where political prisoners were held. Walking through these ruins, visitors can get a sense of the harsh conditions inmates endure.
- Workshops and Factories: The remnants of workshops and factories where prisoners were forced to work, often in very tough conditions, can still be seen.
- Peter’s Pit: A bauxite pit 7 meters deep and 20 wide with a 3-meter high wall and watchtowers. It was meant to hold the 130 most notorious prisoners and was named after Petar Komnenić, president of the Montenegro National Assembly. He was one of the first prisoners that were put in the pit.
Legacy
The legacy of Goli Otok and Sveti Grgur is a painful and controversial chapter in the history of the former Yugoslavia. It wasn’t until the disintegration of Yugoslavia in the 1990s that the stories of these prison islands became widely known to the public. Today, they are a reminder of the excesses of authoritarian regimes and the human capacity for endurance and cruelty.
Efforts have been made to preserve the memory of what happened on these islands, including proposals to turn them into memorial sites. However, debates continue about how to appropriately commemorate the victims and interpret the complex legacy of these places within the broader history of Yugoslavia and the Cold War.
A journey of reflection
Visiting Goli Otok and St. Grgur is not merely a trip to historical sites but a journey into the heart of human resilience, suffering, and the quest for freedom. These islands serve as sad reminders of the darker chapters of Croatian history, offering invaluable insights into the complexities of the human spirit and the costs of political strife.